Yosemite-- Illilouette Gorge and Fall

[SteveHall]

Yosemite Valley exclusives

INTRODUCTION:

If you're like me and have made more than thirty trips to Yosemite in your life, the excitement of being in Yosemite Valley has probably died down a bit. I mean, how many times can you take the Mist Trail through Vernal and Nevada Falls with thousands of other people around you, before you wish you had something else to do? As a result, I'm publishing a three part series of Yosemite Valley exclusives. This special series will highlight three places in the valley that most of you have probably never been to, and some of you probably never knew existed. A word of caution: all three of these areas are considered cross-country scrambling routes, so don't try these hikes unless you know what you're doing and are considered an expert hiker or climber. Also, nobody else is likely to be in the area for quite some time, perhaps days or months, so make sure you don't hike alone but bring somebody with you. These are places where you can find both amazing sights and solitude at the same time in Yosemite Valley-- something which doesn't seem possible.

Illilouette Gorge and the base of Illilouette Fall
(Part 1 of 3)

On my most recent trip to Yosemite, my wife and I hiked the Panorama Trail from Glacier Point to the top of Illilouette Fall, and then on to Nevada Fall, Vernal Fall, and Happy Isles. As I was walking across the bridge above Illilouette Fall, a hike I had always dreamed of doing came back to my mind. For many years I had been wondering if it was possible to get to the bottom of Illilouette Fall. After all, while hiking up from Happy Isles to the Vernal Fall bridge, a nice view of Illilouette is always visible for part of the trail. Thus, the next day I dropped by the Yosemite Visitor's Center to ask about the hike. Being used to the excellent assistance given at the Death Valley Visitor's Center, I was expecting the same level of help from Yosemite. Sadly, the first ranger I talked to had never even heard of Illilouette Fall. The second ranger on duty told me the hike was virtually impossible, that it could only be done by somebody with climbing equipment and experience. Most people would have probably walked away at that point and given up, but I did not want to be denied. So the next day, our group of six set out towards Illilouette Gorge. The following topographical map provides an overview of the area where this hike takes place.

Topographical map of Illilouette Gorge and Fall:


To reach the base of Illilouette Fall, take the Yosemite shuttle bus to Happy Isles. Get off and walk along the horse trail (which is on the west side of the river, while the trail to Vernal Fall is on the east side of the river). You will soon pass signs that say NO HIKERS are allowed on the trail. Ignore these signs, as you are allowed to be here if you are hiking to Illilouette Fall. The signs are there so that hikers don't take this trail to Vernal Fall. After a while you will pass a huge water tank and a moment later you will reach the first of two bridges. Just before you get to the first bridge, turn right and head into the forest. Follow the river as closely as possible, but keep a safe distance from the raging water. At times the forest will be thick and you will have to navigate your way through. The forest floor is covered with thick growth which you will need to get used to walking on. After some time, the terrain gets steeper and you begin encountering large boulders, which either have to be climbed or circumvented. But relax, it's not quite as hard as I'm making it sound. At the 2/3 point in the hike you will encounter a major obstacle, if it is the spring time and the waterfalls are at peak. The west side of the mountain turns and cuts straight over to the river, blocking access to the bottom of the fall. There's really nothing you can do about this, as the rushing water is too dangerous of a hazard, except to wait until the water level drops a little bit. By early June, it should do just that, allowing you to finish this hike and stand at a place where few have ever been in Yosemite Valley-- the base of Illilouette Fall. On our hike, we make it 2/3 of the way, but then ran out of time. Thus, I will be going back to finish this hike in the next couple of weeks, and post the final batch of photos at that time. So here's the first 2/3 of the hike:

Walk the horse trail from Happy Isles to this bridge and turn right:


The split creek near the start of the hike:


Six of us set out on this exclusive hike:


Upstream a little further:


Intense rapids and drop:


Jered scrambling up the steep mountainside:


The sheer walls of Illilouette Gorge, looking up at Panorama Point:


Typical forest you have to make your way through:


View of Vernal Fall off to the east:


First glimpse of the reclusive Illilouette Fall:

[SteveHall]

UPDATE:

We finally had a chance to get back to Yosemite to continue this hike. This time, my good friend Dave Pariani, who was visiting from Nebraska, joined me for the exclusive hike up Illilouette Gorge to make another attempt at reaching the base. It turned out to be way more difficult than I had anticipated. Most of the problems came from the never ending boulder jams which had to be climbed or bypassed. And some of them were a bit risky, so I would personally not recommend this hike to anybody who does not have extensive hiking and minor climbing experience. Adding to the problem was that a thunder storm happened to roll into the valley during our hike, dropping rain and making the huge boulders even more slippery than they already were. But in the end, we made it. It was quite rewarding to finally set foot at the base of Illilouette Fall and have one of the most beautiful spots in Yosemite Valley all to ourselves. Without question, it was an experience I will never forget. Here are some of the pictures we took...

Continuing the hike two months later:


A perfect pool for swimming (with lots of fish):


Passing the western wall and facing major boulder jams:




Dave scrambling up the very difficult path of boulders:


Finally making it to the base of Illilouette Fall:


A view which only a few people have ever seen before:


At the spectacular beginning of Illilouette Fall and Gorge:

[SteveHall]

Half Dome and a thunder storm off in the distance:


Illilouette Fall up close and personal:




A close-up of the top of Illilouette Fall:


Surroundings at the base of Illilouette:


An accomplishment never to be forgotten:

[netllama]

This looks really interesting. Roughly how many miles would you estimate this hike is (each way) to the falls? How many hours did it take you to get there?

[SteveHall]

Thanks for the question, I forgot to mention the time & distance. This is a relatively short hike. From the bus stop at Happy Isles, it's about a fifteen minute walk to the bridge. After that, it's probably about 1 1/2 to 2 miles cross country to the base of the falls, mostly very steep uphill. It should take about 3 hours roundtrip.

And we couldn't complete the hike because of time constraints. It looked like the water level was low enough to get past the one difficult area, but we had to drive home and there were other people waiting for us.

Elevation at Happy Isles: 4,035 ft.
Elevation at base of Illilouette Fall: 5,430 ft.

[SteveHall]

I finished this hike a couple of days ago. The 2nd and 3rd posts up above have been updated with pictures and details of the conclusion of this extremely difficult cross-country hike. And it ended up taking us 6 1/2 hours total. I also finished part 2 of my Yosemite Valley exclusives, which I will be posting soon.

Also I uploaded a short video to YouTube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MNVIx6kGEo

[desert varnish]

I didn't know you were an accomplished Yosemite hiker too! It's awesome to see the pics of Illouette. I've always thought it's a very special waterfall, more or less hidden at the head of a gorge, and requiring a long hike to really see it from above (Four Mile Trail + Panorama Trail is 12 miles, if I remember). I might just have to follow in your footsteps and check out the base of Illouette one of these days. And it's a good way to escape the crowds. Thanks for sharing your pics.
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[SteveHall]

Hey Greg,

Yeah I've done a lot in Yosemite... a lot of backpacking trips and a lot of day hikes. But my 2 favorite hikes ever in Yosemite were this one and my hike to Sierra Point (trip report somewhere else under Western Places). I actually have a 3rd Yosemite Valley exclusive hike but I haven't managed to complete it yet. But this hike up Illilouette Gorge was very special because ever since I was a boy I had dreamed of making it to the base of the fall. To finally make it, after 2 attempts, was awesome.
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Steve's Death Valley Adventures-
www.panamintcity.com